Heading back to the US after almost six years in Tokyo. Our first stop when we arrived was an extended stay hotel where we spent the first 48 hours dead with food poisoning. We went out in style, though, with a comped stay at the Imperial Hotel after we handed over the apartment keys and 48 bonus hours to play tourist. We spent the last night singing at a time-warp snack bar with feisty old twin Mama-sans in sequined jackets. The place was full of thoughtful surprises and odd delights, with a befuddling mix of vintage holdovers and modern technology. It was also a little overwhelming and irritating at times. The bar, I mean. Of course.