Roppongi rainbow

Two-storey rose sculpture and double rainbow from Roppongi Hills at about 6:30 this evening.

I loved the crowd taking photos of the sky en masse, like a practice run for when the aliens come.

Happy Ocean Day

In honor of the Ocean Day three-day weekend and my own hankering for some salt water and sand, here is a Tokyo beach guide written by the ever-awesome Tokyo Mango in Metropolis. Shirahama in Shimoda is nice but too far for a day trip. I've been to Enoshima a few times to try surfing and my overall impression was of a black and white ink wash painting. (I imagine it would be less so had I not gone on cloudy days. The surf instructor pointed toward an electronic message board and said "Point the nose of the board toward the 'Strong warning: high wind' sign and paddle!" Unsettling.) But the sand is always blackish.

Ocean, sand, jellyfish, seagulls - a beach is a beach, right? Sort of. Even going to the beach in Japan is a little different from home. At Enoshima, Mt. Fuji pokes out of the clouds and looms over the sea. Trashcans are few and concrete pylons are plentiful. The Japanese-y-est beach experience I had was in Kyushu. A few drops of rain started to splatter on the sun hats and shades. A chime rang, and a calm voice alerted beach goers a few times that rain was beginning to fall. It felt like the Truman Show.

Bonus song! I don't imagine you'll like this old song, "Umi sono ai," about the ocean and manhood and loneliness and love. At all. But I dare you not to feel a tiny bit moved when he hits the chorus at 1:01.



Uh, no? Just me? It was used in a pachinko commercial earlier this year. It featured a fat, blond Japanese man in a Hawaiian shirt running along the beach belting this out. Which is ironic, because if there is such a thing as the opposite of a beach, it is surely the inside of a pachinko parlor.

Jet lag is your friend

I dread jet lag before trips and complain about it after. But the truth is, I know it's on my side. In Seattle, sleeping til 11 and up and about til 3 am was the perfect vacation schedule; I was there and hungry when a pizza delivery guy came into the dive bar where we were playing pool at 1:30 to sell off his leftover pizzas for 5 bucks a pie. Bliss.

Back in Tokyo to a ton of work, waking up at dawn this week suited me perfectly. The only time I ever wake up before 6 and feel like springing out of bed is when I have jet lag. I savor it, falling into bed and waking up on an old-lady schedule for as long as I can, because I know it won't last.

It’s not the talking escalators at the airport or the doilies in the taxis – it’s the panicked moment when I wake up groggy and realize I've overslept that I know I’m back.

I'm back.

Delivery truck delivery truck

Do not turn your back on the crows

Predatory crows seem to be a problem at Tokyo University. There have been "many recent occurrences" of them sneaking up on hapless students from behind.

Among the warnings: As much as possible, do not take your eye off the crows.

And back

Transportation hack for those who have mildly injured themselves on vacation and/or brought back too many bags: the Airport Limousine costs about the same as the Narita Express and is just a few steps from baggage claim. It takes a little longer to get to Shinjuku Station. This, to me, is compensated for by the fact that it requires about a half mile less walking and zero stairs.

Taking the bus also lets you step outside and get acclimated to the soupy summer air that is always tinged with burning field scraps near the airport. Nothing smells more like Japan to me than that smell.

UPDATE for Jimmy: Here is a sample of two other routes you could take, depending on the time you go. All the time and price info is there. (Use this English train route-finder to find what's available at the time you're coming in - enter from Narita to Shinjuku and your own date and time.)

How did she guess

I asked my neighbor to water our tomato and basil plants while we are on the west coast for the next week. She looked excited and asked the obvious question.
"Are you going back for Michael Jackson's funeral?!"